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LOCAL REPRESENTATIONS

How do Russian, British and French readers perceive their own culture in the pages of Vogue?

Russian Vogue

In the Russian Vogue, the local is represented by nostalgic references to Soviet and pre-Revolution Russia and underpinned by interviews with successful Russian fashion designers and musicians, all of whom are men. It appears that the face of contemporary Russian society is one steeped in former glory days, or at least one clinging to traditional male gender stereotypes of machismo. The one woman who is given significant visual space is Natalia Vodianova, an internationally famous Russian model. She is perhaps considered the country's prime female cultural image expert or ambassador.

Representations of women in the Russian edition of Vogue are not overtly sexy or sexual. Women's bodies are in general clothed and "safe". There is also a distinct lack of powerful or creative Russian women in the pages. This contradicts Hafstede's findings that Russia is "not an overly masculine culture".

An interview of particular interest is one featuring the Russian actor Yevgeny Mironov, who wears not only the international labels Dolce & Gabbana and Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane, but also sports in one shot a track suit replete with the 1980 Russian Olympic Games insignia. He is captured in decidedly macho poses, displaying international savvy and local references by his clothing. Mironov is considered one of Russia's most charismatic male celebrities of the moment.

The Culture Section features a new opera from the Bolshoi – Rosental's Children, "a pseudo-documentary story from our Soviet past, with members of the Party and their favourite composers Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Mozart, Verdi, and Wagner." Here the past masters also are clearly presented as carrying the cultural torch for contemporary Russian society. Interestingly, there is also a serious feature about xenophobia in Russian society, albeit without any accompanying images.

Advertising for local products and events is minimal. There is one ad for Russian chocolate, with the remaining ads for international brands and a sprinkling of Russian boutiques selling international labels. The majority of the advertisements are for international luxury products using the standard international images. This probably indicates that the local (luxury) market is still underdeveloped and that the readership is focused on the promises of the main brands from the West. In general, the image of Russia as analysed in the April 2006 Russian Vogue is one of a country very much concerned with what's on offer in the West, while looking to its own past for a sense of identity.

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